A while back I bought two of those Maclocks with the intention of modding one into a tiny Mac.
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@paulrickards top tip: don't use the function that allows you to automatically launch a version of macos at boot. It overwrites /boot/config.txt and blows away the settings for the waveshare DPI 🙄
@WiteWulf Ugh.. thanks for the tip, I hadn't done the auto startup thing yet.
I had difficultly actually finding where the Basillisk II config file actually was that it was using (so I could change the ethernet to wlan0 to use sheep_net). Tip, os7 is here:
/usr/share/macintoshpi/macos7/macos7.cfg
Edit: I guess I'll just use /etc/rc.local to start it. Along with loading the sheep_net kernal module and setting permissions.
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@WiteWulf Ugh.. thanks for the tip, I hadn't done the auto startup thing yet.
I had difficultly actually finding where the Basillisk II config file actually was that it was using (so I could change the ethernet to wlan0 to use sheep_net). Tip, os7 is here:
/usr/share/macintoshpi/macos7/macos7.cfg
Edit: I guess I'll just use /etc/rc.local to start it. Along with loading the sheep_net kernal module and setting permissions.
@WiteWulf Something else that might help you that I use, you can add additional .dsk images to mount on the commandline.
mac os7 /full/path/to/harddisk.dsk
Also, filenames with spaces failed for me (tried quoting and escaping), YMMV.
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@WiteWulf Something else that might help you that I use, you can add additional .dsk images to mount on the commandline.
mac os7 /full/path/to/harddisk.dsk
Also, filenames with spaces failed for me (tried quoting and escaping), YMMV.
@paulrickards ah, that's handy. I wonder if there's a way to add them on the fly like you can with drag'n'drop in the GUI version
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@paulrickards ah, that's handy. I wonder if there's a way to add them on the fly like you can with drag'n'drop in the GUI version
@WiteWulf Not sure, I've not used Basillisk II a lot.
I couldn't get Open Transport TCP/IP on the included Macintosh Pi OS7 image to work. I used the Network Software Selector to choose Classic networking instead (in the Apple Extras folder).
Another drawback of the Pi Zero 2 W: It only does 2.4GHz WiFi, which where I am is terrible. Have a 3A+ inbound which will do 5GHz WiFi.
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To make a Mac, I'm using a Pi Zero 2 W, a Waveshare 2.8" DPI LCD, and the MacintoshPi image which includes Basillisk II and SheepShaver already installed, and they work without X11 running, perfect for the thin-resourced Pi Zero.
https://jm.iq.pl/macintoshpi-mac-os-7-8-9-for-raspberry-pi/
One thing that was missing was AppleTalk support but I solved that by installing sheep_net from these instructions. And works over WiFi!
https://www.ecliptik.com/blog/2025/Live-Laugh-Localtalk-with-Basilisk-II/
@paulrickards I need to build one of these, Not sure I got a spare case.. (need to look) if not I know there are some 3d printable classic mac inspired cases out there.
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@WiteWulf Not sure, I've not used Basillisk II a lot.
I couldn't get Open Transport TCP/IP on the included Macintosh Pi OS7 image to work. I used the Network Software Selector to choose Classic networking instead (in the Apple Extras folder).
Another drawback of the Pi Zero 2 W: It only does 2.4GHz WiFi, which where I am is terrible. Have a 3A+ inbound which will do 5GHz WiFi.
@paulrickards ah, didn't realise they only did 2GHz! So, yeah, the 3A+ is a much better alternative.
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A while back I bought two of those Maclocks with the intention of modding one into a tiny Mac. After seeing the success of @WiteWulf I decided to give it a go.
Opening the case is definitely the hardest part. Gary said to use guitar picks to start, so I began on the bottom and opened a gap to get a stronger metal spudger inside to lift up the rear case to release the six clips (circled in third pic) from the front. We're inside!
@paulrickards @WiteWulf Any chance I could get some close-up pictures of the original PCB? I'm interested to see if there's any opportunity to do any mods to that hardware. I see what could be a debug header of some kind, and I'm also curious what the other 2 wires coming from the USB-C connection might be for.
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@paulrickards @WiteWulf Any chance I could get some close-up pictures of the original PCB? I'm interested to see if there's any opportunity to do any mods to that hardware. I see what could be a debug header of some kind, and I'm also curious what the other 2 wires coming from the USB-C connection might be for.
@samedwards @paulrickards I’ll get some pics later, but:
- re. USB-C connector, 2 wires to mainboard and 2 to the 18650 cell in the bottom of the case. The little IC on back of the USB-C board must handle charging
- re. original PCB, not much to see bar two ICs with no identifying marks at all. Doesn’t look like they’ve been scrubbed, more like never there at all -
To make a Mac, I'm using a Pi Zero 2 W, a Waveshare 2.8" DPI LCD, and the MacintoshPi image which includes Basillisk II and SheepShaver already installed, and they work without X11 running, perfect for the thin-resourced Pi Zero.
https://jm.iq.pl/macintoshpi-mac-os-7-8-9-for-raspberry-pi/
One thing that was missing was AppleTalk support but I solved that by installing sheep_net from these instructions. And works over WiFi!
https://www.ecliptik.com/blog/2025/Live-Laugh-Localtalk-with-Basilisk-II/
@paulrickards Very nice! I've been keeping an eye out for low cost eInk designs that have enough memory to do a Mac clock. Something like this:
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@samedwards @paulrickards I’ll get some pics later, but:
- re. USB-C connector, 2 wires to mainboard and 2 to the 18650 cell in the bottom of the case. The little IC on back of the USB-C board must handle charging
- re. original PCB, not much to see bar two ICs with no identifying marks at all. Doesn’t look like they’ve been scrubbed, more like never there at all@samedwards @paulrickards as promised.
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@samedwards @paulrickards as promised.
@samedwards @paulrickards here’s another of the front of the board in better light
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To make a Mac, I'm using a Pi Zero 2 W, a Waveshare 2.8" DPI LCD, and the MacintoshPi image which includes Basillisk II and SheepShaver already installed, and they work without X11 running, perfect for the thin-resourced Pi Zero.
https://jm.iq.pl/macintoshpi-mac-os-7-8-9-for-raspberry-pi/
One thing that was missing was AppleTalk support but I solved that by installing sheep_net from these instructions. And works over WiFi!
https://www.ecliptik.com/blog/2025/Live-Laugh-Localtalk-with-Basilisk-II/
So sheep_net seems to work great for AppleTalk traffic but struggles with TCP/IP. It'll work for a few seconds then stop.
Curiously, running tcpdump on the machine causes it work, presumably because it puts the interface into promiscuous mode. And enabling promiscuous mode manually also works.
No mention of that on the project page, but that was 10 years ago.
#RetroComputing #VintageApple #VintageMac
https://github.com/cebix/macemu/tree/master/BasiliskII/src/Unix/Linux/NetDriver
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So sheep_net seems to work great for AppleTalk traffic but struggles with TCP/IP. It'll work for a few seconds then stop.
Curiously, running tcpdump on the machine causes it work, presumably because it puts the interface into promiscuous mode. And enabling promiscuous mode manually also works.
No mention of that on the project page, but that was 10 years ago.
#RetroComputing #VintageApple #VintageMac
https://github.com/cebix/macemu/tree/master/BasiliskII/src/Unix/Linux/NetDriver
Hey maybe the #TinyMac works well enough to be a #GlobalTalk router? Certainly uses a lot less power (avg. about 400mA with screen on).
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@samedwards @paulrickards here’s another of the front of the board in better light
@WiteWulf @paulrickards Thanks! Looks like the main MCU is a FT61E0A5 (datasheet https://www.fremontmicro.com/fmdweb-en/web/get/detail/files/download/response?autoid=24) and the pads along the side are a ISP header, but it looks like it's all proprietary tools, so probably not a good chance to do anything with it. There are 4 pins coming from the battery/USB connector, but the other two probably just signal when it's charging, not anything else accessible over extra USB-C pins.
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Hey maybe the #TinyMac works well enough to be a #GlobalTalk router? Certainly uses a lot less power (avg. about 400mA with screen on).
More #TinyMac progress. Wired up some smol speakers to a smol audio amp.
Designed and printed a volume knob in the style of the original to fit the B50K pot. Biggest issue is how to mount it inside (the amp board has no mounting holes).
The amp turns out to be too noisy, I can hear WiFi and BT traffic. Also draws about 300mA even when the volume knob is switched off.
I think I'll leave it out.
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More #TinyMac progress. Wired up some smol speakers to a smol audio amp.
Designed and printed a volume knob in the style of the original to fit the B50K pot. Biggest issue is how to mount it inside (the amp board has no mounting holes).
The amp turns out to be too noisy, I can hear WiFi and BT traffic. Also draws about 300mA even when the volume knob is switched off.
I think I'll leave it out.
@paulrickards the power consumption looks quite high. Is there a DC component that is fed to the loudspeakers, by chance?
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More #TinyMac progress. Wired up some smol speakers to a smol audio amp.
Designed and printed a volume knob in the style of the original to fit the B50K pot. Biggest issue is how to mount it inside (the amp board has no mounting holes).
The amp turns out to be too noisy, I can hear WiFi and BT traffic. Also draws about 300mA even when the volume knob is switched off.
I think I'll leave it out.
@paulrickards Nice try - shame it didn't work out.
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@paulrickards the power consumption looks quite high. Is there a DC component that is fed to the loudspeakers, by chance?
@davbucci How would I check for that?
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More #TinyMac progress. Wired up some smol speakers to a smol audio amp.
Designed and printed a volume knob in the style of the original to fit the B50K pot. Biggest issue is how to mount it inside (the amp board has no mounting holes).
The amp turns out to be too noisy, I can hear WiFi and BT traffic. Also draws about 300mA even when the volume knob is switched off.
I think I'll leave it out.
More #TinyMac:
- Swapped in a Raspberry Pi 3A+ for the Pi Zero 2 W. Slightly faster and has 5GHz WiFi which is so much better.
- Mounted the LCD/Pi to the back of the front case with some hot glue.
- Kept the front floppy switch as a power switch when floppy is inserted.
- Installed a LX-2BUPS (2x18650 UPS) inside for power, exposed a USB-C port on the back for charging.
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@davbucci How would I check for that?
@paulrickards try with a multimeter in DC, you should have less than 100mV across the loudspeaker terminals with no sound. Alternatively you can check if the loudspeaker moves and stays in a position different from rest when the circuit is switched on (no sound).