Is anyone interested in a citrus thread similar to my big pepper thread?
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@wavesculptor @clew 1/2 🧵I really don’t recommend rooted cuttings. They are much more sensitive to drought and climate changes than citrus with taproots. You might also be having trouble with citrus bc you’re in an area where it is cultivated commercially. Southern EU has many citrus diseases that are decimating citrus crops.
You can limit certain diseases (phytophoria) by growing in pots with sterilized soil and growing citrus that is resistant to disease
2/2 They use different root stocks in Europe than they do here but there are some new promising root stocks.
I suggest you call online support for Oscar Tintori or Agrumi Lenzi (Italian citrus tree sellers) for info about disease resistant EU root stocks.
I think shikuwasa (OT has it), yuzu and certain kumquats are supposedly quite disease resistant. Someone literally just gave me a new mandarin cultivar that is resistant to citrus greening so work is being done about it.
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@jblue yes! Down here we’re just on the edge of being able to plant some outside, but the thought of having to move big heavy pots in and out has daunted me.
@edebill are you interested in cold hardy citrus? Thomasville citrangequat can tolerate down to 5F. It’s a compact plant that can be grown in ground or in pots. It doesn’t fully ripen until January so if you grow it outside, you pick the fruit when it’s green and use it like limes. The peel is fully edible.
Other compact plants that are not so heavy and are also pretty cold hardy are Nippon orangequat (lowest temp 14F), meiwa (17F), shikuwasa (14F). The perk of growing
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@edebill are you interested in cold hardy citrus? Thomasville citrangequat can tolerate down to 5F. It’s a compact plant that can be grown in ground or in pots. It doesn’t fully ripen until January so if you grow it outside, you pick the fruit when it’s green and use it like limes. The peel is fully edible.
Other compact plants that are not so heavy and are also pretty cold hardy are Nippon orangequat (lowest temp 14F), meiwa (17F), shikuwasa (14F). The perk of growing
these in pots moving them in greenhouses in the winter (daytime temp gets to 80-90F at sun’s peak for about 2hrs), is it extends the growing season. Nippon will keep flowering and ripening fruit overwinter even when nights are pretty chilly. The other ones I mentioned will still hold the immature fruit but they ripen much more slowly.
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@edebill are you interested in cold hardy citrus? Thomasville citrangequat can tolerate down to 5F. It’s a compact plant that can be grown in ground or in pots. It doesn’t fully ripen until January so if you grow it outside, you pick the fruit when it’s green and use it like limes. The peel is fully edible.
Other compact plants that are not so heavy and are also pretty cold hardy are Nippon orangequat (lowest temp 14F), meiwa (17F), shikuwasa (14F). The perk of growing
@jblue there are a couple satsuma varieties recommended locally - I believe Arctic Frost is one? On average we only get down to 20-25, but bad years are frequent enough I’d want hardiness to 10-15. So far this year we’ve only gotten to 25.
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@jblue
Yes please! I have a mystery citrus tree that has never flowered and I'm very curious!@noah did it grow from seed?
Seed-grown citrus has a protracted juvenile stage and the hormonal trigger that switches the growth from juvenile to mature/flowering-fruiting depends on the number of leaf nodes from the base of the tree to the top of its tallest branch. If you keep trimming the tree, it stays in the juvenile growth stage. Most citrus require over 100 leaf nodes for the horomones to switch. That’s usually over 7ft tall for most varieties.
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@stephen will do 💚
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@jblue very much so, because I find so much of the citrus informationis just focused on sweet juice & fresh eating, and I know with you, it'll be a much more well rounded set of information.
Mostly I'm looking for rinds, zest, and high acid to use for canning other fruits & as a cleaning ingredient.
@BrahmaBelarusian yup, all of the above
Since you usually plan ahead on things and it’s going to take me a couple weeks to pull this together, for you I recommend shikuwasa (aka shekwasa, Madison Citrus has it), yuzu, Nippon orangequat and Thomasville citrangequat. They’re all pretty cold hardy once established. The Thomasville you can grow in the ground, the rest you can grow outside in pots if you use a pipe warmer chord and wind protection for temps under 20F.
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@BrahmaBelarusian yup, all of the above
Since you usually plan ahead on things and it’s going to take me a couple weeks to pull this together, for you I recommend shikuwasa (aka shekwasa, Madison Citrus has it), yuzu, Nippon orangequat and Thomasville citrangequat. They’re all pretty cold hardy once established. The Thomasville you can grow in the ground, the rest you can grow outside in pots if you use a pipe warmer chord and wind protection for temps under 20F.
I’ll talk more about these citrus varieties and their uses when I post. But it’s something to look at in case you need to make purchases before then.
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@jblue there are a couple satsuma varieties recommended locally - I believe Arctic Frost is one? On average we only get down to 20-25, but bad years are frequent enough I’d want hardiness to 10-15. So far this year we’ve only gotten to 25.
@edebill I forgot yuzu. Yuzus are hardy to 7b.
McKenzie Farms specializes in cold hardy citrus. They have more selection than their website suggests, you kinda have to call or email them and ask what they got.
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Is anyone interested in a citrus thread similar to my big pepper thread?
It would take longer to put together but would have points in companion planting, listing varieties comparing economy of space to yield, scientific research and agricultural practices, using the whole fruit, etc.
I grow and use a lot of citrus and have come across a lot of stuff in my research that is not well known.
#garden #gardening #jardin #garten #jardim #solarpunksunday
Nippon orangequat planted with peas below.
@jblue sure would!
I’ve got about 20 right now, and not all are doing so well!
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@don which varieties aren’t doing well and which country/region are you in? Can you send pics and describe the problems?
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@don which varieties aren’t doing well and which country/region are you in? Can you send pics and describe the problems?
USA, 9b.
Probably the hardest to understand is my potted Hana yuzu (rooted cutting), which was doing *great* all summer, but has decided to drop most of its leaves over the past 6 weeks.
We did have a lot of high wind. And it’s in a quite exposed location, so I hope it’s just that.
It’s dark right now, but I can send a photo or two in the morning.
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USA, 9b.
Probably the hardest to understand is my potted Hana yuzu (rooted cutting), which was doing *great* all summer, but has decided to drop most of its leaves over the past 6 weeks.
We did have a lot of high wind. And it’s in a quite exposed location, so I hope it’s just that.
It’s dark right now, but I can send a photo or two in the morning.
@don is it possible too damp? Rooted cuttings are rather cranky about that and citrus in cold weather even more so. If you can keep it alive until spring, you can graft some scions onto a good root stock. You might have better luck after that.
We were getting a ton of rain earlier this fall/winter and some of my yuzus were yellowing and dropping leaves so I moved them into the greenhouse (only watered once since then) and they’re doing better.
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