So, it’s almost done.
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Alrightee. That was a bit of a slog, but here we are - a haori coat with side slits and patch pockets. For those of you who know about Japanese garments, you’ll be aware of the dramatically long collar’s friend is not at all traditional, nor is the collar that stops before the hem, in the echo of a kimono collar. It’s eccentric but in a very quiet way. I’m rather proud of it. #sewing
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Alrightee. That was a bit of a slog, but here we are - a haori coat with side slits and patch pockets. For those of you who know about Japanese garments, you’ll be aware of the dramatically long collar’s friend is not at all traditional, nor is the collar that stops before the hem, in the echo of a kimono collar. It’s eccentric but in a very quiet way. I’m rather proud of it. #sewing
Meanwhile, look what I scored: two old vintage tanmono (fabric bolts specifically for making kimono).
Both are pure silk. One is 12 meters and the other 22 meters. 26 and 27 Euros respectively. (for each entire bolt)
I don’t know what the import duties are going to run me, but if it’s feasible, I’m going to seriously consider starting a business. #sewing
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Meanwhile, look what I scored: two old vintage tanmono (fabric bolts specifically for making kimono).
Both are pure silk. One is 12 meters and the other 22 meters. 26 and 27 Euros respectively. (for each entire bolt)
I don’t know what the import duties are going to run me, but if it’s feasible, I’m going to seriously consider starting a business. #sewing
It’s going to be a learning curve to figure out what to do with these. They’re both raw silk. They’re 60 years old.
Making stuff that requires dry cleaning seems fundamentally ecologically unethical to me, so I’m going to snag a little from each bolt and wash it in the machine and see what happens to it.
Garments should be wearable, and not require you to break the bank or ruin the planet to get it clean. #sewing
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It’s going to be a learning curve to figure out what to do with these. They’re both raw silk. They’re 60 years old.
Making stuff that requires dry cleaning seems fundamentally ecologically unethical to me, so I’m going to snag a little from each bolt and wash it in the machine and see what happens to it.
Garments should be wearable, and not require you to break the bank or ruin the planet to get it clean. #sewing
@Remittancegirl At the risk of opening a bottomless rabbit hole, what did we do to wash silk before dry-cleaning? I’m guessing we had several thousand years of silk clothes before this was an option.
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@Remittancegirl At the risk of opening a bottomless rabbit hole, what did we do to wash silk before dry-cleaning? I’m guessing we had several thousand years of silk clothes before this was an option.
@erik I don’t know what they did in Europe. In Japan they would completely unpick the kimono, sew it back into a full bolt, with the bits stitched together with whip stitches and join it in a giant belt, and they had a mechanical machine like a spinner that ran a single layer over a huge vat of steaming water. It took about 3 hours of the belt of silk rotating over the vat to get it clean. Then someone would dry it indoors, and sew the kimono back together.
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@Remittancegirl At the risk of opening a bottomless rabbit hole, what did we do to wash silk before dry-cleaning? I’m guessing we had several thousand years of silk clothes before this was an option.
@erik @Remittancegirl for western clothes (because that's what I know best) one option was simply not washing them
you usually wore at least one layer (often two) of sturdy, white-ish linen close to the skin, and that got washed regularly with the harsh methods in use back then (boiling and beating), while the outer layers only got brushed and aired out
of course one wouldn't wear their fancy silk clothing while doing dirty work of any kind, and other clothes were protected with aprons and other strategically placed items (e.g. sleeve protectors when writing or doing other office work).
to be fair, at the end of the season your fancy clothing could at times end up being unpicked and re-dyed, which I assume involved some kind of washing (and any stained part could be avoided when reusing the fabric to remake a different looking dress).
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@erik @Remittancegirl for western clothes (because that's what I know best) one option was simply not washing them
you usually wore at least one layer (often two) of sturdy, white-ish linen close to the skin, and that got washed regularly with the harsh methods in use back then (boiling and beating), while the outer layers only got brushed and aired out
of course one wouldn't wear their fancy silk clothing while doing dirty work of any kind, and other clothes were protected with aprons and other strategically placed items (e.g. sleeve protectors when writing or doing other office work).
to be fair, at the end of the season your fancy clothing could at times end up being unpicked and re-dyed, which I assume involved some kind of washing (and any stained part could be avoided when reusing the fabric to remake a different looking dress).
@Remittancegirl @erik also, as long as you're using a protein-safe detergent (i.e. no enzymes, and acidic rather than alkaline) a lot of silks can go quite safely in the washing machine, especially on a delicates cycle.
others can go in the washing machine and remain usable, but they change properties (so it depends on whether the garment you're making needs those properties)
sartorbohemia.com/article/14/h… ----> this is a shop that tested the fabric they sell and there are a lot of details
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@erik I don’t know what they did in Europe. In Japan they would completely unpick the kimono, sew it back into a full bolt, with the bits stitched together with whip stitches and join it in a giant belt, and they had a mechanical machine like a spinner that ran a single layer over a huge vat of steaming water. It took about 3 hours of the belt of silk rotating over the vat to get it clean. Then someone would dry it indoors, and sew the kimono back together.
@Remittancegirl @erik do you know if they were also wearing an under layer (I believe they did) that was easier to wash and washed more often (here I have no idea), or if that was the procedure for every kind of garment? -
@Remittancegirl @erik do you know if they were also wearing an under layer (I believe they did) that was easier to wash and washed more often (here I have no idea), or if that was the procedure for every kind of garment?
@valhalla But also, kimonos all have what is called a tomo eri : ‘a collar’s friend’. It is sewn on top of the collar of the kimono, and can be removed once it is too worn or soiled, to reveal a pristine new collar! Because the neck is where the garment would normally get the most contact with the neck. @erik
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@valhalla But also, kimonos all have what is called a tomo eri : ‘a collar’s friend’. It is sewn on top of the collar of the kimono, and can be removed once it is too worn or soiled, to reveal a pristine new collar! Because the neck is where the garment would normally get the most contact with the neck. @erik
@Remittancegirl @erik exactly the reason why people used detachable collars on shirts in the west!
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@PaoloParti
Oggi, cool per tutti! 😂
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@Ronflaix in the middle of the woods 🎶
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@ugone si si ho letto l'articolo, poi c'è chi non ha neanche la scelta, ad es in caso di pc aziendali o l'utente medio
Truecrypt è discontinuato poi credo che alla fine ci abbiano fatto dei controlli rigorosi, veracrypt è basato su truecrypt e sviluppato, non so se possa essere meno sicuro, ma poi per un utente medio magari non è importante
Quel che mi manca è la differenza nell'esperienza d'uso
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@kenobit dovete fare come le variant dei manga o come le magic in tiratura limitata. COSI SONO RAREH1;11!1!!1!1
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Current* conditions near Grand Marais, MN:
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concordo sul fatto che per molti è dovere&ipocrisia.
Pure per me lo era, ma poi ho forzato (facendomi odiare all'inizio) alcune abitudini/riti che portavano a riflettere sullo stare insieme. Esempio: le spese della cena si dividono tra tutti, un regalo ciascuno da tutti con limite di spesa. I piccoli hanno una deroga, 3 regali max. Si cucina tutti insieme. Ognuno porta "la lettera di Natale" più o meno scemaOra siamo tutti più felici della festa.
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@kenobit fortuna che ho letto questo messaggio, stavo per perdermelo quest'anno!
Quello dell'anno scorso è stato apprezzato dalla prole (e da me, ovviamente)!
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La tristezza vien vissuta come un valore negativo. Mentre invece va vissuta come un valore positivo. Non commettete l'errore di denigrare la tristezza.
