I’ve been a little quiet because I’ve been working on something kind of new.

[remittancegirl@mstdn.social]

I’ve been a little quiet because I’ve been working on something kind of new. I got this ‘temple style’ top years ago, and thought I’d better get a pattern out of it before I forget. I like it but it’s in really heavy cotton, so not very light. I thought I’d like the same thing but floatier but in back, so if I wore a tank top beneath it it would subtly show through. #Sewing

[remittancegirl@mstdn.social]

It’s a bit of a departure from what I usually make as it has inset sleeves, and darts - shallow, but nonetheless.

The hurdles for me are the usual: I still haven’t taken the plunge and purchased a serger, so french seams and bias binding, I think.

The other hurdle is just getting Dora not to lay and burrow in the thing I’m trying to pin together. #sewing #SewingWithCats

[c_merriweather@social.linux.pizza]

@Remittancegirl You can sew the sleeves in flat- after sewing the shoulder seams, but before sewing up side seams. And if you have a zigzag machine, you can use it to finish the seams. I did that before I bought a serger.

</sewing nerd>

[remittancegirl@mstdn.social]

@c_merriweather Yes, I most definitely can and will sew the sleeves in flat, but I really don’t like the finish my zigzag stitch gives. I’ve experimented a bunch but it’s never really nice. I’m a snob about seam finishes. It comes from all the kimono sewing work. This is my problem, not yours. You’re sensible. I’m a leeeeettle bit obsessive.

[valhalla@social.gl-como.it]

@Remittancegirl @c_merriweather but neat french seam finishes are soooooooo nice!

it's not being obsessive!

(or maybe I'm obsessive too :D )

[remittancegirl@mstdn.social]

@valhalla

The thing is, it’s not like anyone ever sees the seam at the arm hole. I know this. It’s stupid. And yet… *sigh* in my mind’s eye, I see it all the time.

The truth is, I don’t even like serged seams. They still look cheap and unfinished to me.

@c_merriweather

[c_merriweather@social.linux.pizza]

@Remittancegirl @valhalla Ah, I am used to doing large costume work and alterations.

I am not putting french seams in a full Elizabethan court costume, that will have to withstand multiple washings or dry cleaning. I will do hand sewing and cartridge pleating (gathering) where it is necessary.

[valhalla@social.gl-como.it]

@Remittancegirl @c_merriweather you are going to see them!

and they are probably going to last longer than a serged seam, so they may actually be better

[valhalla@social.gl-como.it]

@c_merriweather @Remittancegirl oh, if you expect to have to do alterations then 100% no french seams, they are a PITA to unpick (and it's harder to store enough fabric in them).

And if you're working under theatrical (or equivalent) deadlines I can definitely see how french seams may not be the best choice.

But what's the problem with the washings? I tend to put french (and flat felled) seams in my pajamas and underwear *precisely* because they are a strong finish that will survive being washed weekly or so in a regular, non delicates, load (and afaik were also used historically for the same reason in stuff that was washed with traditional methods involving boiling and beating and generally harsh treatments)