My #LT6502 is assembled.
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My #LT6502 is assembled.
The hinges work really well, if a tad fiddly to get right.
The case, well there are a few gaps here and there, this could be improved with more clips.
Also I’ve learned a lot about 3D printing and there is a lot I would change.
But overall, I’m happy with it.
It’s a bit of a chonker but that honestly doesn’t bother me.
#retrocomputing -
My #LT6502 is assembled.
The hinges work really well, if a tad fiddly to get right.
The case, well there are a few gaps here and there, this could be improved with more clips.
Also I’ve learned a lot about 3D printing and there is a lot I would change.
But overall, I’m happy with it.
It’s a bit of a chonker but that honestly doesn’t bother me.
#retrocomputingMore shots with the lid “closer”, not perfect but for a first go I’m ok with it.
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More shots with the lid “closer”, not perfect but for a first go I’m ok with it.
What would I do differently?
1) Start the design with the keybed, it's a bit squeezed in (I'm not happy with the placement of a few keys).
2) spend longer sourcing a thinner battery (this is 3x18650s)
3) Use an FFC for the display (this would make the display portion about 10mm thinner straight away!)
4) Reduce the smaller fiddly bits in the case, a lot of the problems I had were down to me trying to print things with 0.1mm resolution.
5) Add more clips for the case so it doesn't gape in places -
My #LT6502 is assembled.
The hinges work really well, if a tad fiddly to get right.
The case, well there are a few gaps here and there, this could be improved with more clips.
Also I’ve learned a lot about 3D printing and there is a lot I would change.
But overall, I’m happy with it.
It’s a bit of a chonker but that honestly doesn’t bother me.
#retrocomputing@PaulaMaddox this is excessively cool, congrats.
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My #LT6502 is assembled.
The hinges work really well, if a tad fiddly to get right.
The case, well there are a few gaps here and there, this could be improved with more clips.
Also I’ve learned a lot about 3D printing and there is a lot I would change.
But overall, I’m happy with it.
It’s a bit of a chonker but that honestly doesn’t bother me.
#retrocomputing@PaulaMaddox awesome.. love it.. what filament did you use? Looks like a nice red? All the ones i've tried come out a 'ittle pink or even orange! Looks like a fun project.. may have to give it a go!
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My #LT6502 is assembled.
The hinges work really well, if a tad fiddly to get right.
The case, well there are a few gaps here and there, this could be improved with more clips.
Also I’ve learned a lot about 3D printing and there is a lot I would change.
But overall, I’m happy with it.
It’s a bit of a chonker but that honestly doesn’t bother me.
#retrocomputing -
@PaulaMaddox awesome.. love it.. what filament did you use? Looks like a nice red? All the ones i've tried come out a 'ittle pink or even orange! Looks like a fun project.. may have to give it a go!
@PixRetro It's the Bambu translucent red.
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More shots with the lid “closer”, not perfect but for a first go I’m ok with it.
Looks already quite good to me. At most there are two things that could be improved but that's it.
Sand the rough edges and find something to protect that ribbon cable better. (But for the 2nd one my only idea would be finding a way to shove it through the hinges which is just annoying when reopening and closing it).
But for you not having "Nintendo budget" I feel like you can definitely call it perfect already though...
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My #LT6502 is assembled.
The hinges work really well, if a tad fiddly to get right.
The case, well there are a few gaps here and there, this could be improved with more clips.
Also I’ve learned a lot about 3D printing and there is a lot I would change.
But overall, I’m happy with it.
It’s a bit of a chonker but that honestly doesn’t bother me.
#retrocomputing@PaulaMaddox Daaaaamn! it's fucking awesome!
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Looks already quite good to me. At most there are two things that could be improved but that's it.
Sand the rough edges and find something to protect that ribbon cable better. (But for the 2nd one my only idea would be finding a way to shove it through the hinges which is just annoying when reopening and closing it).
But for you not having "Nintendo budget" I feel like you can definitely call it perfect already though...
@agowa338 I wasn't sure if I could sand the PLA, wouldn't that melt it and spoil it?
The ribbon is less than ideal, I did look at trying to make a long hinge, to pass it through, but couldn't quite figure out how. -
@agowa338 I wasn't sure if I could sand the PLA, wouldn't that melt it and spoil it?
The ribbon is less than ideal, I did look at trying to make a long hinge, to pass it through, but couldn't quite figure out how.Well depends on what kind of look you're after. Some people like that sanded look.
But now that you've said it is PLA, there may be an easier solution. Curing. I haven't tried it myself but others have suggested it to me in the past, take a big bag of salt (or sand), dump it into a container with your 3D print berried in the middle not touching any of the corners and bring it up to the melting point and let it set again. Basically you're making a mould and casting it all at once
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What would I do differently?
1) Start the design with the keybed, it's a bit squeezed in (I'm not happy with the placement of a few keys).
2) spend longer sourcing a thinner battery (this is 3x18650s)
3) Use an FFC for the display (this would make the display portion about 10mm thinner straight away!)
4) Reduce the smaller fiddly bits in the case, a lot of the problems I had were down to me trying to print things with 0.1mm resolution.
5) Add more clips for the case so it doesn't gape in places@PaulaMaddox How did you solve the hinges?
Are them sturdy enough?
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Well depends on what kind of look you're after. Some people like that sanded look.
But now that you've said it is PLA, there may be an easier solution. Curing. I haven't tried it myself but others have suggested it to me in the past, take a big bag of salt (or sand), dump it into a container with your 3D print berried in the middle not touching any of the corners and bring it up to the melting point and let it set again. Basically you're making a mould and casting it all at once
And for the hinge have a look at how e.g. nintendo did it on their DS consoles. Basically use these yellow kind of cables and then curl it up and shove it through a hinge with a hole in the center. (But as I said it is quite annoying to work with and assuming you want to take it apart a few times again your solution is probably better suited anyway)
https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Nintendo+DSi+XL+Hinges+Replacement/3573
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@PaulaMaddox How did you solve the hinges?
Are them sturdy enough?
@ekaitz_zarraga They're actually really sturdy, I took the idea from here - https://www.printables.com/model/658393-friction-hinge-mechanism/comments#preview.file.aPNjd
You can adjust the stiffness easily.
They won't last forever like metal hinges, but I couldn't find any available to buy. -
And for the hinge have a look at how e.g. nintendo did it on their DS consoles. Basically use these yellow kind of cables and then curl it up and shove it through a hinge with a hole in the center. (But as I said it is quite annoying to work with and assuming you want to take it apart a few times again your solution is probably better suited anyway)
https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Nintendo+DSi+XL+Hinges+Replacement/3573
@agowa338 I remember fixing laptops with that sort of thing, so easy to break and a pain to work on as you say.
I will think of something for the next version :) -
@PixRetro It's the Bambu translucent red.
@PaulaMaddox thanks! I'll have to give it a go! 😁
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@agowa338 I remember fixing laptops with that sort of thing, so easy to break and a pain to work on as you say.
I will think of something for the next version :)Well I feel like your solution is good enough. How hard is it to replace that ribbon cable in your build? when you really damage it?
From the pictures not at all. At most I'd focus on making it replaceable without opening the entire case but that's basically it.However keep cooking your stuff looks great :)
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Well I feel like your solution is good enough. How hard is it to replace that ribbon cable in your build? when you really damage it?
From the pictures not at all. At most I'd focus on making it replaceable without opening the entire case but that's basically it.However keep cooking your stuff looks great :)
@agowa338 it's fairly simple to replace, maybe takes 5 minutes.
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@ekaitz_zarraga They're actually really sturdy, I took the idea from here - https://www.printables.com/model/658393-friction-hinge-mechanism/comments#preview.file.aPNjd
You can adjust the stiffness easily.
They won't last forever like metal hinges, but I couldn't find any available to buy.@PaulaMaddox Oh I see! Very cool! thanks for sharing
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My #LT6502 is assembled.
The hinges work really well, if a tad fiddly to get right.
The case, well there are a few gaps here and there, this could be improved with more clips.
Also I’ve learned a lot about 3D printing and there is a lot I would change.
But overall, I’m happy with it.
It’s a bit of a chonker but that honestly doesn’t bother me.
#retrocomputing@PaulaMaddox This is awesome!
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